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Laszlo Moharita, Vice President of Fragrance and Haircare Package Development, looks at current and future packaging criteria for delighting cosmetic consumers
December 7, 2022
By: Jamie Matusow
Editor-in-Chief
Innovative Packaging, especially in the Cosmetic Industry runs on an ever-evolving course, from pure functionality and necessity, to creating “items of desire.” In this exclusive interview, Laszlo Moharita, Vice President of Fragrance and Haircare Package Development, The Estée Lauder Companies, tells Jamie Matusow about how innovative packaging trends and the roles of sustainability, refills, ‘thoughtful attention to detail,’ unboxing, storytelling—and more, all help to elevate the consumer experience. Ultimately, says Moharita, “The most successful brands will be those that are able to balance luxury and innovative materials with simple, yet impactful package design.” Jamie Matusow: How do you interpret/define innovation in today’s beauty world—and has it been modified from something that’s truly unique, to meet other criteria such as sustainability, materials, online sales, Instagrammable appeal, etc.? Laszlo Moharita: Innovation in beauty packaging is an area that is constantly evolving. Over the years, packaging has gone from serving a function (protection, storage, use and promotion) to not only having purpose, but becoming an object of desire. Functionality has become the entry point. Today, everybody expects their package to work as intended. The challenge is how do we take that one step further to make the consumer experience memorable. The questions we ask ourselves are: How do we design and build packaging, so people feel better during and after its use? How do we develop packaging that consumers admire and cherish? This in turn helps to fuel advancements in sustainability, where the idea of refills is gaining more and more momentum. We are tasked with introducing new materials and new methods of manufacturing that provide consumers with more curated and artisanal experiences. Finally, as the distribution channels expand (brick-and-mortar, online, travel retail, etc.) and social media continues to grow, we must design packaging that is appealing and drives trial in any situation and consumer moment. JM: What innovative packaging features draw consumers to a product? Especially to a prestige product? LM: I can answer this in one phrase: Thoughtful attention to detail. From the way the package feels in a consumer’s hands to the sound it makes when used, to the way the package seamlessly becomes part of everyday life, attention to detail is critical for prestige beauty. JM: How does online acceleration influence innovative design? Do innovative features need to vary for online versus brick-and-mortar? Or how can the two be tied together? LM: In addition to the innovations in protective and sustainable packaging, the biggest shift that online acceleration has brought is the evolution of the “unboxing” concept. Package design solutions that elevate the unboxing experience and turn the impersonal act of online buying into opportunities for gifting are key for online. I predict that the online unboxing and gifting experience will force the brick-and-mortar consumer experience to evolve, as they will both be a requirement of luxury packaging in the near future. More importantly, the first moment of connection with a product online comes from what you see, rather than in-store where the first connection is what you can feel in your hand. Because of this, product packaging must work harder to stand out and draw attention from consumers shopping online. That said, in the online environment, there is also more room for storytelling—meaning we can highlight the importance of starting to make synergistic claims between packaging and formula to make both stand out and build stories around the technical robustness of our packages to meet consumer needs. JM: What about globally? Can innovative packaging connect with consumers across borders? LM: Great packaging should be universal. Innovative packaging solutions create unforgettable experiences that go beyond borders. Depending on the region, there may be certain aesthetic attributes, like color or finishes, which will get adjusted to ensure local relevance. But generally, prestige and luxe packaging create an experience that delights and excites consumers on a global level. JM: How do you create a compelling story? Where do you start in developing an idea? What elements are involved? How much needs to come through in a first glance at the product/package? LM: In this industry, everything starts with a very strong creative idea that is looking to solve a consumer pain point. Whether it is a new product you want to put in the market or a new way of applying an existing product, we are always looking to elevate the consumer experience. As you develop this creative idea, you bring in trends and insights to shape it into an even stronger proposition to deliver consumer delight. Finally, throughout the creative process of divergence and convergence, our technical know-how as package developers around materials and manufacturing processes is leveraged into bringing a product to market that is impactful and memorable in the hands of our consumers. Ultimately, we strive to deliver a consistent message across the product story, formula and package. JM: How do you keep the consumer top of mind when it comes to packaging? LM: Research, research, and more research! We have a multitude of teams that focus on consumer insights and trends, and they are a great asset to leverage, in order to gain a deeper understanding for the packaging landscape. However, there is nothing more rewarding than seeing consumers handle and experience packaging in their own hands. Consumer feedback, especially with mockups and prototypes, is key! JM: What about the unboxing experience? Does that also tie-in with innovative concepts? LM: The unboxing experience plays a critical role in complementing your brand story. There are so many opportunities that can be activated through unboxing and gifting. Beyond delivering on the fundamentals, which means ensuring our products arrive damage-free, frustration-free, and in the most sustainable packaging possible, elevating the unboxing experience is necessary in delivering our high-touch promise to the consumer. As we shift from being purely functional to delivering a superior, equity building consumer experience, we need to elevate the emotional aspect to build the consumer connection which means innovating in the space through attention grabbing, potentially keepsake/collectable packaging designed to be shown off and memorable. This is especially relevant when designing for gifting and consumers in new luxury destinations. JM: Please describe a package ELC has recently developed—and what makes it innovative. LM: Recently, our Jo Malone London brand developed a range of fragrances and home products that leveraged a new technique to decorate the closures used across the line. We adapted a multi-colored wood lacquering process to suit the brand’s theme of “Wild Swimming” and emulate the ripples and movement of water. Using this lacquering and sanding technique on the wooden caps, we were able to make each cap unique as the lacquer removal process exposed the natural wood grain of the material. JM: Where do you see the future of cosmetics packaging? LM: Three words: Luxurious. Sustainable. Simple. Looking ahead, I believe the most successful brands will be those that are able to balance luxury and innovative materials with simple, yet impactful package design.
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